Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children do not want to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
