‘Every Cook Ought to Study Here’: Humble Turkish Eatery Earns 4th on List of London’s Best Restaurants.

Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning names. But, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.